Last Updated on: March 2, 2026

From Reisbach Baviaria northwest towards Erfurt and Harz. In the beginning a pleasant ride, but it didn’t last all the way.

Erfurter Altstadt (old town), Germany, later evening.

Northwest towards Harz

Harz mountain area wasn’t a goal in itself, but more of a northern reference point. I had no plans to ride across the Harz mountains, like I did in 2019. Little did I know how detours would steer me there the following day.

A few kilometers north of Reisbach the GPS hinted about a “shortcut”. Those of us who likes to improvise know what “shortcuts” may turn out to be. Exactly, anything but. Leaving a farm behind soon found myself in a wood, on a gravel and dirt road with sections of slippery mud.

With a set of fairly worn Michelin Anakee Adventure tires, plus a fully loaded motorcycle, there were good reasons to stay sharp and focused. But the joy of finding the route by far exceeded the ordeal of making it through, even the muddiest section.

In the woods of Bavaria, Germany, on a half dry stretch.

Out on the other side I continued to zig-zag northwest towards Harz. During summer one has to be prepared for a lot of “Umleitung” or detour signs. Those can in Germany mean quite a bit of extra distance to travel, all depending.

A church & abbey surprise

I cannot recall if it was one of the “Umleitungs” (detours/diversions) that led me to Walderbach, a municipality in Bavaria and a quaint little village. More likely the GPS in small roads mode. Approaching Walderbach from the south the first to see is the spire of the parish church.

That looked like something worth checking out!

Walderbach and St Nikolaus abbey with the parish church.

Crossed a bridge, turned left onto a cobblestone road. Then saw a sideroad leading into the courtyard of what turned out to be Walderbach Abbey, a Romanesque Cistercian monastery, with history dating back to 1143.

The church, St. Maria was erected much later (ca 1779). Next to it, in the complex a land hotel or Gasthof. The buildings were, as often is the case in Germany, in immaculate condition. Such a nice surprise! I parked the motorcycle and went for the church door. It was open, so I walked right in.

The church was beautiful, both outside and inside. Walls decorated with paintings and ornaments. Not a soul in sight and no one showed up while I spend time wandering around. Well worth the stop and experience! Below a short video from inside the church.

Video: St Maria, Walderbach.

Heavy rain & refuge in Erfurt

From Walderbach I continued north – northwest towards Harz and stuck to smaller roads for the most part. I was not in a hurry and kept bimbling about. Which led me to the little town of Erbendorf, and the first drive-in bakery I’ve encountered in Germany.

Not saying there aren’t others, but a first for me.

Backhaus Kutzer, drive-in bakery in Erbendorf, Germany

Bakeries are excellent if you’re ok with an easy, inexpensive lunch. I’ve yet to find one shabby bakery with poor quality or selection. The usual is the opposite. No different with this place! Here, like in most bakeries in Germany, I got fresh sandwiches and great coffee.

After a nice “Bâckerei lunch” I continued north. If anything the weather was actually clearing up. That was until a certain point.

South of Erfurt, Germany before Mordor took over.

Out of nowhere ominous sign on the western skies. Still distant, but for once I made the wise choice to stop and put on raingear. Very wise actually. as shortly after all hell broke lose. It rained like crazy.

That made me decide, enough was enough. A bus stop shed offered shelter while trying to find a place to stay. Chose a hotel in Erfurt that looked decent. But the misery wasn’t over. The hotel was difficult to find, not the least thanks to an uncooperative GPS, and one way streets everywhere.

Evening dinner in Erfurt, there are worse ways to end the day.

Finally I found it, thankfully with a parking garage. No sooner was I under a roof the pissing rain stopped, of course. Later that evening I walked into the old town for a bite and a drink. Found a place with great food. And so ended that day.