Last Updated on: November 15, 2025
A motorcycle autumn adventure in Norway means preparing for all sorts of weather. If a high pressure settles, it’s time to pack up and go!
September 26th 2025: across Norwegian mountains.
Well, that’s what I did. The autumn has been quite wet and cold this year. As we moved into the last week of September a high pressure settled over the central, east and western Norway. It could be the last chance for a ride west for me, and in decent temperatures. Or so I thought.
But to get to Vestland mountains had to be crossed. In late September that means to be prepared for low temperatures. We had already seen snow in some mountain areas, north of where I planned to cross over.
A chilly start
With bright riding prospects I took a day off work. Set the course north along road Rv7 to Gol. Which is a fairly known little town in Hallingdal. The plan was to decide there which road to take over the mountains.
Via Hemsedal there are two options to Aurland. Pavement to and via Lærdal, or gravel across the mountains to Ål and Hol municipalities. The gravel road is normally open from late May till October. The other route would be Rv7 or pavement up towards Geilo. And take road Fv50 to Aurland at Hagafoss.
Quick coffee stop in Hemsedal.
Arriving in Gol around 4PM it was getting rather chilly. Nonetheless I decided to take the gravel road or route. Simply too good an opportunity to miss. Hemsedal is half an hour away from Gol. Right outside Hemsedal “centre” you turn to the left to Hemsedal Skiing center. This is where Fanitullvegen begins.
The first part climbs up to past cabins and ski resorts, and then heads goes southwest. Once you put Hemsedal behind you civilization is basically all gone. Save some cabins here and there. The route is at the bottom of the page.
Along Fanitullvegen across the mountains.
Autumn Adventure, a short one
Riding over the mountains in September is gamble. With both weather and temperature. Rode the same road later half of May and and it was a bone freezing experience. Strong winds made it feel like below freezing.
But inversions do occur, meaning low temps in the valleys, and higher at up in the mountain. Riding across this time the temp stayed in double digits at 1000 meters and above. In some places even as high as 16C. And practically no wind!
Along the gravel road, beautiful nature.
Like last time it was a bit late for checking out some of the side roads. Had to make it to Aurland before the shops closed. Investigating the side roads would have taken too much time. So that will again have to be for another time. With an earlier start.
The roads across have lots of twists and turns.
If one does all the roads or sections it’s 80kilometers of gravel and dirt riding in total. Through mostly undisturbed nature, with lots of lakes and few cabins. Towards the end of the third gravel road there was one section with construction road and deep, loose gravel. Don’t know what was going on there. I couldn’t see any construction from the road.
Down at the end of it I turned northwest on Fv50 towards Aurland.
Signs of frost
Autumn Adventure riding in Norway sometimes brings surprises. On the way down from the mountains the temp on the dash dash suddenly dropped to +3C. Which could mean even colder pavement. Saw plenty of frost roadside, and pavement was dark and slippery. Rode cautiously down to where Fv50, through multiple tunnels, winds down to Vassbygdi.
Arriving at my destination it was five degrees. Well bummer. The forecast for the following two days didn’t look too bad. But one thing is a forecast, quite another realities. Next morning I was met with the same temperature. Hopes for a spectacular autumn adventure faded.
My plan for the day was to ride in direction of Voss, and from there to Hardanger. But past Gudvangen the temperature suddenly dropped to +2C. It was very humid, wet, and the asphalt was black.
On the way up in Flåmsdalen, Norway. Cold and wet pavement.
Autumn adventure & realities
Decided it was too risky. Black ice can form quickly under such conditions. That’s a red flag for motorcycle riders, and can be downright dangerous. So I turned around to head back and grab my stuff. But on the return I rode up into Flåmsdalen. Same story again, freezing cold and wet roads.
Flåmsdalen. Pretty, but too cold in the shadows.
Kept going for a little while longer, found a spot in the sun and contemplated on the situation. It was way too cold to get where I wanted to go. And the conditions were too risky. So that’s how it ended, with a failure. Went back to my accommodation, packed up and rode back home.
Over Hemsedal mountains it was a pleasant 14-15 degrees Celsius. But like on the way west it didn’t last. Made it home safe and decided the season was over, at least for longer adventure.
Fanitullvegen & some advice
Below you can see the route across the mountains, from Hemsedal to Vats in Ål Municipality. Plus the loop further in which will finally will take you down to Fv50. Whether you are a motorcycle rider, or visit Norway by car, all roads are well worth the experience. Oh and here’s the entire route.
There are a couple of other possibilities, one is to take the route past Vats Fjellstue, which leads you down to ca Hol. Not tried this one myself.
One thing has to be added though. If you ride this road early summer or right after it’s opened you have to be prepared for deeper, loose gravel. At that time road tires isn’t the best choice. Late spring/early summer is normally the time they lay gravel on many such roads. And that can mean deeper gravel here and there.
Later in summer most of these roads are usually so run down, and the gravel mostly concentrated in the centre or along sides of the road. Street bikes with street tires shouldn’t have any problem then.
The route from Hemsedal to Ål and Hol municipalities.