Woke up not too early in Denmark, ready for day 2 of the adventure. Looking out through the windows the weather checked out pretty good. No sight of dark clouds or rain.
A quick shower, then from Bed to Breakfast, latter placed the flat’s fridge the night before while I was in Ringkøbing. Not fantastic but fully adequate for my rather modest needs. Didn’t even miss egg & bacon, knew there would be plenty of that later!
Bed & Breakfast – better than it sounds
Mentioned in the first post, I’ve not done much B&B before, it’s always been motels, hotels or apartments. But after this summer’s experience that will change. Especially when looking for places outside of towns, outside of city centers.
If you don’t need to, staying on a B&B outside of a town has its distinct charm. The term B&B might also be pretty misleading. Especially if you get your own mini flat like I did. Spacious for two, don’t think a family of three or four would suffer here either.
I’ll be much more attentive towards B&B’s offers in the future, especially if accommodation checks out like Holmsland Bed & Breakfast!
Southwest-wards in Denmark
Over the course of multiple decades I’ve covered much of Denmark. From north to south, east to west, on Sjælland as well as Jylland. But never on a motorcycle, and never along the west coast from north to south.
Leaving Ringkøbing behind I first rode a little northwest, then down along the North Sea, past Hvide Sande.
It can be pretty windy out here. Monday June 25th was in that respect no exception. The temperature wasn’t very high for summer, weather was grey and overcast, but at least it continued to stay in the dry.
The roads down here are very good, well at least as long as you stay on the larger county network. I went a little bit further, and found some small, twisty roads, and a little bit of gravel.
One thing that really does not work for a heavy, fully loaded adventure motorcycle, is sand. And in this part of Denmark, there’s a lot of it. It might seem compact, especially if mixed with gravel, but go too far off from the tiny roads and you might find trouble.
Being alone I had no desire to tempt fate, or tip over. Tried a few creative options but all led to sandy hills and banks. I saw no roads that went across and down to the beach or sea. But it was fun to do those dead ends, even though the sand was treacherously lose in some places.
Surprises in Denmark
Detouring and challenging the GPS routes you might have a few misses. But when or if you find a route that really works, it’s very cool. Further south I discovered something not expected in these sandy & windy parts of Denmark. A pretty large wood of birch, pine & fir trees.
I later learned that this area of Denmark had been used extensively by both the Danish, later German troops and soldiers during the second world war. Did see some traces of bygone activity, in the form of diverted roads, plus some scattered ruins in the sand.
Partially successful I kept on looking for more small roads, while zig-zag’ing south. The sandy trend continued but occasional, well maintained gravel roads through woods and sand banks made it worth the effort.
Further south I came to the town of Esbjerg. This is also where you find some pretty cool sculptures, with the name Men at Sea.
There’s something quite impressive about these 9 meters tall sculptures. The artist supposedly wanted them in a different location but I think they really work here.
Ribe & border crossing
From Esbjerg I rode in the direction of the old town Ribe, where I had lunch. Established in the 8th century one of the cities in Denmark that would be worth a longer visit. I however, was just passing through.
After lunch I continued south towards the Danish German border. Along the route there were plenty of small, picturesque towns and buildings, like Gram & Gram Castle.
Not long after I crossed the border over to Germany and rode along the borders. Schleswig Holstein, and especially this region is flat as a pancake. Roads are good, you might find a worthy detour or two.
I had one stop to make before heading to the destination of the day. To check in on a familiar place.
Stopped in the municipality center of Meyn, the place of family ancestry and origin, way back. Was here in 2012, took a few seconds to conclude nothing had changed since then.
There once used to be a Gasthaus, but that was, as back in -12, closed. Strangely enogh, all seemingly abandoned building were kept in mind condition. Some take pride in their property, even if it might not serve any major purpose. If I ever come this way again doubt there will be another visit to “the roots”. A glass of water definitely would be more exciting.
After the “roots stop” I headed more or less straight onto A7 and rode it into Neumunster where I’d booked hotel for the night. The next day my Red Cow (motorcycle) was to have its yearly service at a BMW dealer, whereafter the Adventure would carry on.
Little did I know about the “excitement” that awaited me, further south. That will be elaborated on in the next post!